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A word from Ulaanbaatar and the steppe

ger

n. The round felt tent that herding families live in on the Mongolian steppe, and the first word most visitors learn

  • A warm layer for the nights
  • A small gift for the family
  • Time to sit and drink tea

GEHR

Woman walking across a green steppe toward two white gers
Fig. 1. Woman walking across a green steppe toward two white gers

I’m Tuya. I spend my summers in gers with herding families on the steppe and write about it, and I sell a trip planner, lists, a phrase sheet, an ebook and a course.

What it means to learn

Three things to practise with, in the order I would take them.

  1. n. (video course)

    Travel the Steppe Respectfully

    A video course on how to arrive, eat and stay as a guest in a family’s ger.

    • Video course
    • 6 lessons

    We stepped into the ger right foot first, as lesson two said.

    Two hands receiving a bowl of tea politely
  2. n. (download, PDF)

    Ger Stay Packing List

    A printable list of what to carry for a stay in a ger.

    • PDF
    • 3 pages

    The list said bring a warm layer, and the night in the ger was cold.

    Nine compartments holding socks, slippers, torch and sweets
  3. n. (download, PDF)

    Letters from the Steppe

    An ebook of my summer letters, written from the door of a ger.

    • Ebook
    • 48 pages

    I read the whole ebook on the train to the ger.

    Tablet showing a blurred letter and steppe picture
  4. n. (merch)

    Merch from the steppe

    Printed to order and shipped by Printful.

  5. n. (free letter)

    Steppe Notes

    A weekly letter about the grassland, one story and one word.

    This week’s letter was written in a ger in a storm.

Downloads and courses

Shop

Download as soon as you pay. Yours to keep.

Inside a ger with a stove, kettle and painted poles

Origin

Etymology

I live in Ulaanbaatar for nine months of the year and on the grassland for the other three. My grandparents herded, and I was sent to them every summer as a child. As an adult I went back with a notebook, and a family I had never met gave me a bed in their ger and a bowl of tea.

Every Sunday I send a letter from one or the other: a ger, a storm, a drive, or the geranium on my city windowsill. What I sell is what I wish a visitor had handed me: a trip planner, a packing list, a small phrase sheet, an ebook of my summer letters and a course on travelling the steppe respectfully.