Browse by topic

Latest posts

A new post every Sunday: a letter from a ger, a drive, a meal or a storm on the steppe.

Winter apartment window with a geranium and milk tea

Missing the steppe from a city window

A geranium, a mug of milk tea and the grey hills of Ulaanbaatar in November, and what I carry home from summer.

Nov 5, 2026 · 6 min read

What to pack for a month in a ger
Nov 4, 2026 · 9 min read
Arriving at a ger and what to say
Nov 3, 2026 · 7 min read
Tea, milk and the first bowl
Nov 2, 2026 · 8 min read
A storm on the steppe, from inside
Nov 1, 2026 · 7 min read
Rolling felt with the family
Oct 24, 2026 · 9 min read

Eight hours on a dirt track
Oct 17, 2026 · 8 min read
Where the horses sleep at night
Oct 10, 2026 · 10 min read
Waking up in a ger
Oct 3, 2026 · 6 min read
Why I spend every summer on the steppe
Sep 26, 2026 · 8 min read

Free

Steppe Notes

A free letter every Sunday: one story from the steppe, one word and one thing to know before you go.

2,100 readers

Free, and you can leave any time