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Inside a ger with a stove, kettle and painted poles

Origin

Etymology

I live in Ulaanbaatar for nine months of the year and on the grassland for the other three. My grandparents herded, and I was sent to them every summer as a child. As an adult I went back with a notebook, and a family I had never met gave me a bed in their ger and a bowl of tea.

Every Sunday I send a letter from one or the other: a ger, a storm, a drive, or the geranium on my city windowsill. What I sell is what I wish a visitor had handed me: a trip planner, a packing list, a small phrase sheet, an ebook of my summer letters and a course on travelling the steppe respectfully.

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Tethered horses and a motorbike outside a ger at dusk

Free

Steppe Notes

A free letter every Sunday: one story from the steppe, one word and one thing to know before you go.

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