November 5, 2026 · 6 min
Missing the steppe from a city window
A geranium, a mug of milk tea and the grey hills of Ulaanbaatar in November, and what I carry home from summer.
Free
Steppe Notes
A free letter every Sunday: one story from the steppe, one word and one thing to know before you go.
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What to pack for a month in a ger
The warm layer, the torch, the gifts and the one thing I would leave at home.